Montage steps

1. Preparation for Installation

Before beginning the assembly, thoroughly study the floor plan of the staircase and verify the ceiling opening and dimensions against the plan. Pay close attention to the wall structure, the ceiling structure, and the space available at the stair exit.

Verify the completeness of all staircase components, unpack them, inspect them, and familiarize yourself with their layout and position in the stairwell. Follow the same process for the fittings and auxiliary installation materials.

Prepare all necessary assembly tools and aids carefully. Read through the entire text beforehand to obtain a solid theoretical understanding of the complete workflow.

Personnel and Screwing Recommendations

• Personnel: It is recommended to carry out the installation with at least two people, preferably three or four.
• Screwing Note: Before driving in any screw, apply a small amount of silicone (approx. two pea-sized drops) into the pre-drilled hole. This facilitates driving it in and reduces the risk of the screw breaking under tensile load.

2. Planning and Drilling Anchor Points

Installation begins by anchoring the second outer string (exit string) to the wall. Because the anchoring holes are not pre-drilled, they must be planned and drilled carefully to ensure they do not conflict with electrical installations, niches, or other holes in the wall.

• First Anchor Point: Position it as close as possible to the stair ascent — ideally approx. 6 cm below the centre of the first tread.
• Exit Anchor Point: Position it as close as possible to the exit, under either the last or second-to-last tread, ensuring it does not hit the insulation layer of the ceiling.
• Corner Anchors: Additionally, anchor each outer string as closely as possible to the corner.
• Intermediate Anchors: Place the remaining anchor points at intervals of approx. every two rises between the ascent and exit, also roughly 6 cm below the centre of the respective tread. Where practical, utilize existing holes intended for securing the steps to the string to minimize the number of required cover caps.
• Landing Anchors: If the staircase features a landing, set two anchor points under each section (leg) of the landing.

If mounting against framed walls featuring reinforcements or studs behind plasterboard or OSB panels, align the anchor points exactly with the centres of these reinforcements. Do not reduce the number of anchor points; it is advisable to place up to two anchors vertically one above the other to ensure stability.

3. Aligning and Connecting the Outer Strings

Press the second outer string (exit string) against the wall, guide it up to the exit edge, support it, and align it. The upper edge (saddle) of the vertical timber beam on the string must sit lower than the final floor height of the upper floor by exactly the thickness of the tread. Verify that the exit edge is perfectly level using a spirit level.

Attention: Uneven floors at the stair exit are a frequent issue, especially with screed floors. If the final story height has not yet been established, bring the string to the correct height using suitable shimming plates. Once properly positioned, secure the string by anchoring it at all planned points, but do not tighten the fasteners too firmly yet.

Next, glue the wooden dowels into the string and screw the threaded rods into the second outer string to link the strings at the outer corner. Coat the joint interface, preferably the front face of the first outer string (ascent string), with glue.

Attach the first outer string (ascent string) to the corner connection by sliding the string onto the wooden dowels and threaded rods, align it, and press it against the wall. Support the string securely so that it is accurately positioned. Screw the collar nuts onto the threaded rods and tighten the corner connection securely. Double-check the levelness of the saddle for the treads across both outer stair strings and make corrections if necessary.

Once everything is correctly aligned, anchor the ascent string to the wall at all planned points without tightening the screws too firmly to avoid damaging the structure. Finally, screw the threaded rods into the two holes on the side of the vertical timber beam of the outer exit string, where a drive-in nut at the end of each hole secures the rod and stabilizes the system.

4. Preparing and Aligning the Inner Exit String

Prepare the second inner string (exit string) by screwing the threaded rods into the two holes on the side of the vertical timber beam of the string. If the string will remain visible later, a screw-in nut is located in the hole; otherwise, use a drive-in nut.

Place this inner string against the exit edge, support it, and align it just like the outer string. The distance between the two strings is defined and fixed by the anchor plate.

Apply silicone to the string at the contact point with the anchor plate, slide the anchor plate onto the threaded rods, and press it toward the exit. Guide the collar nuts onto the ends of all four threaded rods within the openings and tighten them firmly, ensuring everything fits together correctly.

Verify the levelness of the saddle for the treads across both exit strings and make corrections if necessary to guarantee precise alignment.

Important Geometric Note: The staircase is manufactured to be exactly rectangular in its floor plan. If there is any deviation from a right angle at the exit, the strings and the anchor plate must be shimmed accordingly. This ensures that the exact right angle between the strings is maintained after anchoring, preventing issues during the subsequent installation of the steps or landing.

5. Anchoring the Exit Plate

Plan and drill 2 to 4 holes into the anchor plate for securing it to the exit, and anchor the plate firmly. Ensure the anchor points are correctly positioned to guarantee high structural strength.

It is crucial to verify the location of the anchor points relative to the insulation and any electrical, water, or heating lines to prevent damage to existing utility installations and ensure a safe, stable anchorage.

6. Connecting and Aligning the Inner Strings

Glue the wooden dowels into the second inner string to connect the strings at the inner corner. Coat the joint interface, especially the front face of the ascent string, with glue. Slide the ascent string onto the wooden dowels and secure the connection using two 6×100 screws.

Properly support and align the entire inner string assembly just like the outer side. To accurately control the distance between the outer and inner strings, provisionally place a tread before the corner, another directly behind the corner, and tread No. 2 onto the wooden dowels for a trial fit. Verify the levelness during this test.

Once everything is correctly aligned, firmly anchor the ascent of the inner string to the floor under the first step using the floor anchor. The anchor holes are located under the first step.

Attention: Ensure that underfloor heating systems are strictly accounted for at this location to avoid puncturing any heating lines!

Note: The floor anchor shares the hole on the side of the string with the future threaded rod used to secure the first tread. Ensure that enough space remains for the threaded rod to guarantee trouble-free assembly!

7. Installation of Step No. 1

Standard Configuration (Without Risers)

1. Apply silicone evenly across the entire surface of the horizontal saddles of both stair strings for the first tread.
2. Apply construction adhesive into the holes for the wooden dowels both in the string and in the tread, and insert the dowels into the string.
3. From the underside of the tread, screw the threaded rods into the screw-in nuts.
4. Place the tread onto the wooden dowels in the strings and tap it carefully with a rubber mallet until it sits correctly.
5. Screw the collar nuts onto the threaded rods on the sides of the strings below the tread and tighten them securely.

7.1 Configuration with Risers

If the staircase features risers, modify the procedure for Step No. 1 as follows:

1. Apply silicone evenly across the entire surface of the horizontal saddles of both stair strings for the first tread, as well as onto the vertical string faces where they interface with risers No. 1 and No. 2.
2. Apply construction adhesive into the holes for the wooden dowels both in the string and in the tread, and insert the dowels into the string.
3. Mount Riser No. 2: Apply silicone beads to the surface of the rear edge of tread No. 1, running 1.5 cm parallel to the top and bottom of the tread. Fit riser No. 2 and screw it into tread No. 1 from the rear side using three 5×45 screws, wiping away any excess silicone carefully.
4. Mount Riser No. 1: Insert riser No. 1 into the groove of the first tread, ensuring you apply construction adhesive into the groove beforehand.
5. Insert & Secure: From the underside of the tread, screw the threaded rods into the screw-in nuts. Place the tread along with both risers onto the wooden dowels in the strings and tap them carefully with a rubber mallet to fix them securely.
6. Screw the collar nuts onto the threaded rods on the sides of the strings below the tread and tighten them. If there is no finished floor underneath the staircase, lay out riser No. 1 and secure it to prevent it from slipping out of the tread groove.

8. Step-by-Step Installation of the Remaining Treads

Standard Configuration (Without Risers)

1. Progressively mount the treads from the ascent upwards. Apply silicone evenly across the entire surface of the horizontal saddles of both stair strings for tread No. 2.
2. Apply construction adhesive into the holes for the wooden dowels both in the string and in the tread, and insert the dowels into the string.
3. Place the tread onto the wooden dowels in the strings and tap it carefully with a rubber mallet to fix it securely.
4. Secure the tread from the string side by driving a 6x60 screw into the hole under the tread.
5. Repeat this sequence for each subsequent tread up to and including the second-to-last step.

8.1 Configuration with Risers

If the staircase features risers, modify the procedure for the remaining steps as follows:

1. Apply silicone evenly across the entire surface of the horizontal saddles of both stair strings for tread No. 2, as well as onto the vertical string faces where they meet riser No. 3.
2. Apply construction adhesive into the holes for the wooden dowels both in the string and in the tread, and insert the dowels into the string.
3. Apply silicone beads onto the surface of the rear edge of tread No. 2, running approx. 1.5 cm parallel to the top and bottom of the tread. Fit riser No. 3 and screw it into the tread from the rear using three 5x45 screws, wiping away any overflow carefully.
4. Apply construction adhesive into the bottom of the groove of tread No. 2.
5. Position the entire element (tread No. 2 together with riser No. 3) onto the wooden dowels in the strings and into the groove of riser No. 2, tapping it carefully with a rubber mallet to fix everything securely.
6. Secure the tread from the string side by driving a 6x60 screw into the hole under the tread.
7. Repeat this sequence in the same manner up to and including the second-to-last step.

8.2 Landing Installation

The landing is handled similarly to a standard tread during assembly. However, due to its larger width, it must be reinforced and secured with screws at multiple locations to ensure stability.

9. Installation of the Exit Step

Standard Configuration (Without Risers)

1. Apply a thin, uniform layer of silicone across the upper edges (saddles) of the vertical timber beams of both strings, as well as onto the top edge of the anchor plate. This creates a tight connection and prevents creaking noises. Apply silicone to the rear edge of the exit step as well to ensure a quiet, stable installation.
2. Apply construction adhesive into the holes for the wooden dowels both in the vertical timber beams and in the tread, then insert the wooden dowels into the prepared holes in the timber beams.
3. Place the exit step onto the wooden dowels in the strings and tap it carefully with a rubber mallet until the step sits tightly, forming a stable connection.

9.1 Configuration with Risers

If the staircase features risers, follow the same steps as above, but additionally apply construction adhesive into the bottom of the groove of the exit step to guarantee a firm, permanent connection between the exit step and its corresponding riser.

10. Final Tightening and Structural Inspection

Completely tighten all anchor points across the strings and the anchor plate, then thoroughly check the geometry of the entire staircase to ensure that all dimensions and alignments are correct.

11. Cleaning and Finishing Work

Clean the staircase thoroughly to remove dust and installation residues.

Cover all openings and connection holes with the custom-sized cover caps. Place the caps onto the holes and press them firmly by hand to lock them into place flush with the surface.

12. Curing Time

All glued and silicone-sealed connections require approximately 24 hours at normal room temperature to cure completely. Do not subject the staircase to heavy loads during this period.