With our configuration system and this guide, installation becomes a successful team effort. We’ll show you the key tips and tricks you won’t find in any standard manual. 7+ hacks.
A steel staircase is the perfect design feature for your home. But how do you get heavy steel into position against the wall with professional precision? The good news: with our configuration system and this guide, installation becomes a successful team effort. We’ll show you the crucial tips and tricks you won’t find in any standard manual.
Steel is durable, but heavy. The recommendation is clear: three to four people are not a luxury, but a safety necessity. You’ll save your back while also preventing scratches to the premium finish before the staircase is even in place.
Pro tip: Have some chilled drinks ready – it’s the best way to keep everyone motivated while carrying those heavy stringers.
There’s nothing more annoying than a staircase that makes noise with every step. The secret lies in the detail: place the supplied transparent plastic pads between the tread and the stringer.
Tip for precise installation: These pads are self-adhesive. They are supplied in a slightly smaller size so they fit perfectly without the need for any additional trimming.
The outer stringer is your anchoring point. Before you start drilling, check the wall for any utilities, recesses or openings.
Drywall-specific tip: When installing the staircase against a drywall partition, we recommend placing a rubber strip between the wall and the steel stringer. It absorbs vibrations and helps keep your home pleasantly quiet.
Many people make the mistake of tightening everything fully right away. Stop! The inner stringer and treads should initially only be loosely attached – leave a few threads free.
Why? This intentional “play” makes it much easier to fit the remaining treads and helps prevent damage to the finish. Only once everything is perfectly aligned should you proceed with the final tightening.
If you have chosen a closed staircase with risers, you are now becoming an acoustic specialist.
Noise barrier: Use a combination of construction adhesive and neutral-cure silicone. This creates a sealing barrier that prevents rattling while also ensuring that the adhesive does not seep out through the joints.
The railing is the showcase of your staircase. To achieve a perfectly symmetrical final look, it is important to follow the correct installation sequence – we call it the “inside-out” principle:
The foundation: First, install the posts using the supplied pads and align them precisely so they are perfectly vertical. A spirit level is your most important tool here.
Geometry check: Next, install just one infill panel and check the overhang on both sides. Only once everything is symmetrical should you secure the handrail – and check the overhangs again.
Workflow hack: Once this basic frame is in place, you have a perfect guide. You can then calmly install the remaining infill bars.
Final detail: Finally, attach the stainless ste
Even if the staircase looks finished, give the materials time to “rest.” Adhesives and silicone sealants need approximately 24 hours at room temperature to fully cure. During this time, the staircase should remain a “no-go zone” and should not be subjected to any load.
Some call it craftsmanship; we call it the art of precision. If you want to install your steel staircase yourself, the most important hack is not just having the right tools, but above all, eliminating stress in the material.
“Silent Staircase” Pro Tip: A common installation mistake is firmly bolting the staircase to an uneven surface. Our tip for a result without cracking or squeaking: when securing the floor plate, use spot shimming with spacers before fully tightening the anchors. This prevents stress from building up in the steel stringer, which could otherwise “work” with temperature changes or produce unwanted noises.
With these 7+ steps and our exclusive installation hacks, you can turn a heavy construction kit into a quiet, stylish designer staircase. Remember: steel does not forgive haste, but it rewards precision. If you follow these tips, your staircase will not only be strong and stable, but will also look like it was designed by an architect – without unnecessarily increasing your budget.
Plan for 3 to 4 people to help with the installation. Because steel is very heavy, this team size is an essential safety requirement that protects your back and prevents scratches on the premium finish during transport and assembly.
To avoid noise, place the included transparent, self-adhesive plastic pads between the steps and the stringer. When installing on drywall or plasterboard walls, a rubber sheet between the wall and the metal stringer also helps absorb vibrations.
The inner stringer and steps should initially be fixed only loosely (leaving a few thread turns free) to allow for deliberate "play." This makes it much easier to fit the remaining steps precisely and prevents paint damage before everything is properly aligned and tightened at the end.
When dealing with the railing, the "inside-out principle" applies. First, set the posts exactly plumb and mount a single infill panel to check for symmetry. Only then should you anchor the handrail and base frame before inserting the remaining infill bars and gluing on the stainless steel caps.